Check out this Facebook video and this Facebook video on grooming a GWP.
Among the humans, the bald and the beardless do not have to incur costs of hairdresser, nor expense to make for the purchase of a comb or a razor. For the toilet, a good soap is enough. On the other hand, the hairy natures must invest in this type of material if they wish to maintain their head regularly, keep their identity and the delicacy of their features because without maintenance, the hair covers the skull and hide the shapes of the head, the beard and the whiskers invade the face and mask the face. For the griffin heads, it's the same, but here things are even more complicated. In addition to the comb, you need a curry, the razor becomes a comb-knife and shampoos are more specific ... In addition, a horsehair glove is very useful.
The aesthetic grooming is more complex, although human hair fashion is sometimes surprisingly subtle. A beautiful griffin head, well typed, must be well supplied with hair, with good trimmings. To be highlighted, it requires regular maintenance. When one does not do it for lack of knowledge or simply for lack of time, do not use any "figaro canine" who does not know the KORTHALS.
The headdress of the head of the KORTHALS is particular, it is not necessary to carve anyhow.
Sharp eyebrows should not cover the eyes so as not to hide the sight, whiskers and beards must be copious to protect the face and give it its square shape so characteristic. These fittings require regular combing for cleaning and airing. When the eyebrows are too long, they must be deburred, it is advisable to tear off the dead hair and to taper the tips too long; never cut them. The use of scissors is absolutely prohibited, it usually leaves traces in scale and it's camouflage. It is possible to use a knife comb.
It has been said before, DE GINGINS explained it: there is no undercoat in mind, the hair on the head is an expansion.
• The slightly domed shape of the skull top requires a fairly short fleece. The use of the comb knife is convenient. It is necessary to maintain a short hair, a length of approximately one centimetre. We can also use a clipper, many amateurs do, but the problem is that mowing is often made too close, which is not very seyant, not to mention the snags and scales ...
• Similarly, the hair on the ears should be worked. It tends to lie on this spot on the top and around. As a result, the shape of the ear changes, it widens, but especially it lengthens. It is important to restore its shape by shortening the upper hairs and by combing with the comb knife all those who exceed at the edges. Again, the mower is usable but delicate to handle.
• The area under the eyes, just above the cheeks and extending to the temples also requires grooming. The growing hairs here give the thickness and it is important to lighten slightly with the comb knife, to respect the eyelashes.
• A small space, located against the inner corner of the eye, at the base of the stop and at the start of the chamfer, corresponds to the beginning of the whiskers. At this place long hairs rise up forming small toupees that hide the eyes of the dog. These small tufts have, moreover, an unsightly character and it is better to make them disappear. This releases the birth of the chamfer and makes it all its natural length.
• The throat and neck require a good "brushcutting". The neck must be powerful, but it must remain harmonious. An excess of hair at this point may be the effect of a short neck, tucked into the shoulders. In the same way the neck and the neck must have a hair provided but not too long. The neckline should keep a sleek, unobstructed and elegant, favouring a beautiful expression in the port of head. The grooming of the head is an artistic work. We see, it is not about cutting, trimming and shaving in all directions. Jean CASTAING rightly explained that the grooming of a griffin must have nothing in common with that of a poodle or a fox terrier!
Some areas should be worked with moderation to reveal the carving of the face. To thin the fleece on the skull, the temples, the zygomatic and the sub-orbital area is to reduce the mass of the head. In this way, the heaviness caused by the hairy exuberance is removed. The head must manifest its true expression.
A relatively recent fashion is to shave close to all these superabundant hairy areas. This is the "Provençal" cut, put in vogue at a time already distant by an Occitan breeder. The mower prunes too much the aforementioned spaces that come out shaved, it usually encroaches on the cheeks, digs them and starts the beard ... the cubic harmony of the muzzle is broken. To finish the eyebrows are cut "squared", in visor, the skulls have the clear cut of the Legionnaires and the necklines resemble those of the Spanish GALGOS. The general appearance of the head is similar to that of a SCHNAUZER with drooping ears! This type of grooming gives the opposite of a natural expression and hardens the features. It borders on disguise and should not be tolerated.
Do not forget the inside of the ears. Probably, is this the most delicate part of the head. The hair contains dust and small debris. An excess of earwax sticks the hairs of the entrance of the auditory canal. It is embarrassing for the smell, furthermore it favours the development of an auricular cathar. It is treated with hot water and glycerine; It is easy to practice waxing the hair that obstructs the entrance of the ear canals, it is painless for the dog.
A good judge always checks the cleanliness of the ears, it is a criterion of propriety on behalf of the presenter.
Regular cleaning of the teeth is necessary. Tartar builds up on the dental crown. In addition to the unpleasant effect, side effects are important, the collar is loose, caries are installed. The bad breath encountered is also the cause.
GWP Hand stripping tutorial
www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZUTZCwdMwk
Hand Stripping the Head